The Pretty Good House

Did you know that buildings generate about 40% of annual global green house gas emissions?(1) FORTY PERCENT. When you commission a building and ask that it “just meet code” you are asking for the worst building you can legally build. Sure, it may be pretty, but if it’s not sustainably built, you’re contributing negatively to that 40%. If you don’t pay attention to reducing your carbon footprint, your building will continue to be part of the problem for as long as it stands.

But these are just numbers. When all is said and done, sustainable homes are MORE COMFORTABLE and significantly HEALTHIER for their occupants. No joke.

You may be thinking… “It costs a fortune to build a sustainable house! I can’t afford that!” Fear not, there are relatively affordable solutions to this problem. And thankfully, some really smart people put it all together and gave it an awesome name… the PRETTY GOOD HOUSE.

The Pretty Good House is a high performance house emphasizing low energy consumption, reduced carbon emissions, and incredible occupant comfort and health.

Have you heard of LEED or Passive House? These programs help architects, designers, builders, and engineers create environmentally-friendly buildings. I’m a BIG fan of Passive House but its rigorous standards make it a hard sell. These buildings end up being incredibly cheap to operate and, over the life of the building, pay for themselves many times over, but the up front cost is pretty high.

As a new-ish architect, I was floundering; looking for an alternative system to use as a guide. I want to design environmentally friendly buildings for my budget-conscious clients but I don’t have the experience to find the best solutions in a pile of data.

Then, earlier this year, I attended a Building Science Discussion Group in Portland, Maine and BAM! I heard about the Pretty Good House and it felt like the answers to all my hopes and dreams! I was (and still am) EXCITED.

Pretty Good House was borne out of a collaboration between some of the best builders, architects, engineers, designers, and specifiers in the business. With decades of experience in the sustainable building industry, they came up with a set of reasonable expectations for a Pretty Good House. The key word there is “reasonable.” In Michael Maine’s words, a Pretty Good House finds the “sweet spot between expenditures and gains.”

PGH is not regulated by any board or council. It’s not a building standard. You can’t take classes in it. No one is directly making money with the PGH. (Except for an awesome engineer who sells her graphic handbook for 99 cents. )

Rather, it’s a way of thinking about your home. A set of principles that direct the design of your building. You can do some of the things or (preferably) all of the things.

I did LOTS of research (and coloring in!), and here, for your reading pleasure, are the boiled down principles of a Pretty Good House*:

Big Picture

1. Remodel existing homes rather than building new.

Existing homes required a huge amount of energy to be built in the first place. If you can reuse some of that energy, you already have a leg up. BUT! You’re still trying to find the balance between expenditures and gains. So if remodeling an existing home is going to be cost prohibitive, a new home may be the better way to go. Here’s a quick guide to help you figure it out.

Pro tip: If you’re remodeling an existing home, an energy audit is a good place to start. They’re not as expensive as you may think.

2. Consider future use.

Design the floor plan & structure so it’s (relatively) easy for the future owners of your building to remodel. Also, use materials that can be recycled at the end of their life.

3. Whenever possible, use the low-tech solution.

Deciduous trees for shading, ceiling fans for cooling, clothing lines instead of dryers (at least in the summer).

4. Don’t forget aesthetics.

This building should look good, feel good, and function well. Otherwise it will not be worth the added cost of building this way and it probably won’t last multiple generations.

5. Support the local economy.

As much as is reasonable, source local materials and hire local labor.

6. Universal Design.

None of us will be able-bodied forever. Universal design considers the difficulty of climbing stairs, using a bathtub, hunching to load the dishwasher or oven… you get where I’m going. If we consider a larger swath of the population, our buildings will last longer.

7. Make it multi-family or multi-generational.

If you can fit multiple families under one roof, your environmental impact is hugely reduced. And, of course, there are ton of other benefits to living near other people. Hello free childcare, home security, and easy social or family gatherings.

Plan & Structure

8. Don’t build more space than you need.

Design a building just big enough to be comfortable without feeling claustrophobic. Yes, this may mean getting rid of some of your stuff. Just because you can afford more space doesn’t mean you need it. Every square foot requires valuable materials, don’t waste them.

9. Pay attention to the sun & wind.

Careful placement of building footprint, windows, and doors can mean significantly lower heating, cooling, and lighting costs. This page has a great section on orientation.

10. Keep the structure simple.

Simple forms mean fewer places for air and water leakages. Also, they’re easier to insulate and require fewer materials. All this means simple forms are cheaper than complex ones, cha-ching!

11. Create a service core for plumbing, wiring, and mechanical systems.

Grouping these systems saves energy, space, AND money.

12. Minimize windows.

They suck at retaining heat. Pun intended! Although, obviously you do want some windows for views and fresh air (and so you don’t feel like you’re in prison). So when choosing windows, it’s important to specify those that are energy efficient.

Enclosure

(Aka building envelope, aka foundation, walls, and roof)

13. Install enough insulation for your climate.

The International Energy Code Council has determined your climate zone. Here’s a link to all the zones in the US, broken down by county. From there, you can research to determine your optimal insulation values. This info is also valuable in figuring out your mechanical systems (see Energy Systems section below).

For instance, the recommended values in Maine are: R-10 under the slab, R-20 at foundation walls, R-40 above-grade walls, R-60 at the roof, and R-5 to R-8 windows. Maine is a very cold climate so these values are higher than most. (See note #27 below about foam insulation.)

A nice side effect of the higher insulation values is incredible noise attenuation.

14. Careful air sealing.

The exterior envelope should be very tight. No, buildings do not need to breathe… at least not through the walls (see note #20 below). You need good architect, contractor, and subcontractors to make sure this is done right.

15. Wall, roof, and foundations should handle water properly.

The building is no longer “breathing” like it’s 1970 so we have to find another way to dry it out and prevent rot. Another reason you need a good builder and architect! Here’s a good breakdown of enclosure needs. And here’s another.

Energy Systems

(This page has an great breakdown)

16. Get your energy from renewable sources.

Most commonly used are photovoltaic (solar panels) systems but also consider wind or hydro power. Avoid using gas or oil. If you can’t afford the PV system right now, at least include the electrical and structural support to add it later.

You can have a wood stove or fireplace but make sure it’s EPA certified and includes a dedicated air supply.

17. Lighting

Don’t forget to use LED fixtures. Yep, they are capable of producing a non-blue light. If you’re looking for soft and comfortable, buy fixtures with a color temperature of 2700k-3000k.

And during installation, be sure to check that the penetrations in your walls and ceiling are well sealed against air and moisture intrusion.

18. Use air-source heat pumps (aka. minisplits).

They are efficient, ductless, and the new versions operate at very low temperatures. That being said, if you live in a house with lots of little rooms, a minisplit may not be the right choice. And if you live in a very cold climate, you’ll need a backup energy source for those very cold days.

19. Use heat pump water heaters & low flow fixtures.

Super efficient. Actually three times more efficient than a water heater with fuel burning heat source. And while you’re at it don’t forget your low flow fixtures.

20. Mechanically ventilate.

This building is sealed up tight so you need another way to bring in fresh air. Preferably through an ERV (energy recovery ventilator) or HRV (heat recovery ventilator). But you could also use a forced air HVAC system. The key is that only filtered and conditioned air (or air through open windows) is allowed into the building.

More on ERV’s & HRV’s in a later article.

21. Make it affordable to operate.

Buy the high efficiency appliances. Higher up front cost is worth it for energy efficient systems that save you money in the long run. Fun fact: front loading washers use less water and soap!

22. Consider indoor air quality.

This means a careful choice of your HVAC system as well as all the materials you use in the the construction and finishing of the house. (See #26 below.)

23. Zone your HVAC system.

Basically, don’t heat or cool the rooms you’re not using. Segment the system so you can control “zones” individually.

24. Energy model during design.

Predict how your building will perform. It’s easier to edit in design than after construction! This one requires a building pro with the software.

Materials

25. Make it low maintenance.

Use durable materials so you don’t have to spend your life taking care of your home.

26. Avoid toxic materials.

You’d be surprised how many building materials are bad for indoor air quality and for the outside environment. Paint, sealant, flooring, vinyl, the list goes on. Ever heard of sick building syndrome?

27. Avoid spray foam or rigid foam.

Spray foam is often used because of its high R-value and its weather barrier (air and moisture) qualities. But most insulating foam (spray and rigid) is full of terrible chemicals and should be avoided if possible. According to Michael Maines, “When building a new house, there should be no need to use foam above grade.” (2) A good alternative: make the insulation cavities bigger (thicker walls & ceilings) and use a more natural insulator like mineral wool.

28. Try to use wood.

Local, sustainably harvested wood. It’s a renewable resource and is usually not highly processed. Wood for the win!

Post- Construction

29. Provide an Owner’s Manual.

This home is one big system, you’ll need a guide to remember how to operate it properly. And when you move out, you can give it to the next owners!

30. Collect data.

Test how the house performs after it’s built. This will help you find any gaps in your planning and will help future PGH’ers build even better.

Other Stuff

31. Assembling the Team

I didn’t mention assembling your team but it’s an important part of the process. Here’s a good breakdown of who you may need.

32. CRAZY note about climate change

Scientist predict that by 2080, climate zones will have shifted an average of 300 miles towards the poles. In some places, it’s up to 500 miles! In Maine, we can expect a climate like Baltimore, Maryland. WHAAAAAAT?

Like the PGH website says, “We all need to do what we can to mitigate climate change, but we should also plan ahead for future requirements—before long, we will need less heating and more cooling and dehumidification than we do now.”